Rio de Janeiro Public Transportation Guide
Public transportation includes taxis, ferries, and buses. The advantage is that there is very little advance planning required for these services. Some of these services, like taxis, are available 24 hours a day and you pay only for what you actually use. This can be very economical, but you may have to wait for taxis and you will probably have to deal with some Portuguese.
Taxis
The great thing about taxis is that they can be arranged on short notice. The bad news is that they probably do not have an English speaking driver and the public taxis are rarely as nice as a private car. Also, taxis may be hard to find during peak times like special events, holidays, or bad weather. Taxis are available in almost all areas of Greater Rio except favelas, where there generally are not any road suitable for cars and it is quite dangerous.
For the most part, taxis in Rio are clean, safe, and cheap, but there are a few exceptions. The trick to taxis is to be sure that you get one that is licensed, i.e. run by a real company and not an independent. There are many honest vendors of the latter, but you have more to fall back on with a company if you have an accident or leave something behind. Look for obvious cab markings including the word “radio”.
The taxis in front of the major hotels are generally vetted by the establishment. The doorman will not let known rip-off artists hang around in front. You will also see taxi stands in major traffic areas that are generally safe. Be sure to go to the taxi at the front of the line or you will cause problems for the drivers. If you need to order a taxi, you will probably need to speak Portuguese. Most people will be able to ask the front desk clerk, bell captain, or doorman to order them a taxi, but you need to be prepared to tell them where you want to go. If you are not going to a well-known restaurant or club, you will need to have a written address. If you have the card of a driver that you have used before, you can call them directly. At Rio Holiday, taxis are arranged by phone with the Transportation Manager or one of the Hospitality Managers.
Taxis drivers, like everyone else in Brazil, speak Portuguese. Also common is a mixture of Portuguese and Spanish called portañol by some. They may also speak a few words of English, French, or German. It is rare to find a taxi driver fluent in English, so you may want to get his card if you like him so that you can use him again. It is a good idea to take a printed copy of the address where you are staying. Then, you can just show it to the driver if you have a problem. If you are staying at a hotel, get a card from the front desk. If you are staying at an apartment, see if the doorman can write down the address for you. If you are staying with Rio Holiday, we have a "kit" of things for you to take when you leave the house that includes directions in Portuguese and a loaner cell phone.
It is not legal for taxis in Rio to carry more than 4 passengers. Some will do this, but if you are caught in a blitz (see below), there will be a hassle and a fine for the driver. This regulation probably has more to do with the fact that you pay for taxis in Rio by the car, not by the person. So, the price is the same for 1 person or for 4. Naturally, the drivers want a limit to this, so 5 people will need to take two taxis. You pay for taxis by the meter at the end of your ride. There are two common situations where a fixed price may be quoted - a trip to or from the airport, and a tour of the major attractions. Be sure you understand what is happening as you get into the taxi.
If you find a driver that you like, get his card and cell phone number so that you can call him to come and pick you up. They are usually willing to do this. Even though tipping is not expected by taxi drivers, a few cents left over is OK. If you have a special driver, occasionally slip him a $R 5 tip and he will be your on-call driver for your whole stay. If a driver let's you off at a restaurant or club, it is not uncommon for him to ask when you would like to be picked up. If you like the driver, go ahead and estimate the time. If you don't like the driver or you are not sure of your evening plans, just say you aren't sure and take one of his cards.
For safety reasons, you should use taxis instead of walking at night. This is especially true in high tourist areas like Copacabana and Ipanema. Even if your hotel is just a few blocks away, muggings are common in these areas. This is especially important if you have been enjoying some of the local Caipirinhas. See our Guide to a Safe Trip to Rio for more information.
Taxi rip-offs come in two main flavors. The most common is charging you more than is necessary or fair, either by not using the meter or by taking you the long way around. These are fairly common, just like in many US cities. Be sure to ask for the meter to be running unless the driver quotes you a fixed price in advance. Do not wait until the end to understand the price unless the meter is running and you are on a short hop. The second type of taxi rip-off is rare, but not unheard of. This is where you might be robbed. Avoid unmarked “taxis” or any situation where you feel uncomfortable. Don’t carry or flash large sums of money. If you are robbed, don’t play the hero – just give up your money and conserve your life.
Bus Service and Ferry Service
Buses in Rio are inexpensive and generally safe during the day, but are not safe in all areas. Rio also has a train service for some outlying areas to centro, and can be thought of as busses on rails. Buses become less safe at night and vary in safety depending on the neighborhoods through which they must travel. Millions of Brazilians take the bus every day with no problems at all, but they are on familiar turf and no how to behave. Think of New York City and you will have the general idea. If you know what you are doing, they can be simple and cheap. However, for safety reasons, bus transportation is not recommend for tourists to Brazil.
You will need to understand some basic Portuguese to use the bus or rail system, or at least know the number and name of the bus you want. Bus service in Brazil is all privatized, so there may be several ways to get from one place to another as these bus lines compete. Some are more expensive than others because they are air conditioned or offer a higher level of comfort. Air conditioned service to Copacabana is about R$ 4.50 each way, R$ 6.00 if you want to go part way on the high speed passenger catamaran from Charitas. If you are staying with Rio Holiday, we recommend that you ask Hospitality Manager if you think bus or rail service is right for you.
Ferry service is a little better if you are traveling between Niteroi and Rio. Especially nice is the catamaran service between downtown Rio and Charitas. This is fast, modern, and will cost about R$6 for a one way trip right into Centro. The major problem with this service is that it is a commuter ferry, so the hours are only good during a business day. It does not run late at night, the Saturday afternoons, or Sundays. The ferry from downtown to Rio to downtown Niteroi is not as nice or new. The price is about R$2, but it is significantly slower as it is a conventional craft. It will also be more crowded and dirtier. You should take this ferry only if you know what you are doing or need to be in the center of Niteroi.